St Petersburg Harley Days 7 – 10 August 2019 By Dave Lees
When in 2014 I mentioned to Bev that St Petersburg were having a Harley Rally, she said it would be a good idea to go. So we did. It was only their second rally, but with the organisational help of their twin city Hamburg, it was one of the best we had been to. So much so that I have been every year since.
The first thing to say is that it takes both time and patience to get there by bike, but it is definitely worth it if you have both. From applying for a Visa, to going to London to have fingerprints taken, and the forms that have to be completed it can seem a bit of a faff. Medical Insurance, International driving licence, Green card for bike Insurance are all required, plus temp import and re-export docs although some may not be examined every time.
I have used a couple of routes to get there and this year was one I have used 3 times.
I caught the overnight ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland and rode direct to Hamburg. I usually spend the night and next day there to take in the sights, meet some friends, and get a decent Currywurst. As it happened the finals of the Ironman competition was taking place, and I was in the right place to catch the end of this exciting race.
The ride from Hamburg to Travemunde only takes about an hour, traffic and weather permitting, and there I met up with some German friends also taking the Helsinki ferry.
Loading starts at 9pm and the ferry departs about 2am. 2 nights on board on a boat that is more geared to freight does drag a little but does get you close to Russia without the long ride. I take the view that as I am going to a special rally, I minimise any chance of mechanical problems on the way there, and worry about them on the return.
This year for the first time there was an issue with insurance as no company would issue a Green Card, a necessity for travel in Russia. I could have rode in without it, but to be honest, having witnessed the state of some Russian driving, I did not want to take the risk. I have since found out that it may be possible to buy Insurance at the border, but how the hell that works I have no idea.
Instead I left my bike at my Hotel in Helsinki, and took the train into Russia. In fact it turned out to be far less hassle than driving through Finland and crossing the Russian border for the ride down to St Pete. All the document checks were carried out on the train which takes just over 3 hours. In previous visits, it has taken me that long just to get through the border checks. (The first year took 4 and a half hours.) However, this meant no bike in St Pet, but as the rally is so central, I didn’t really miss it for once.
I had plotted my route from the station to my hotel. The number 7 tram would take me almost to the door. Out the station, saw the tram, jumped on it Great. Went to pay, and after a bit of a discussion found I was going the wrong way. Off the tram, cross the road to go in the opposite direction, no tram. After a lot a chat with a local, I found a bus that took me in the direction I needed to go, and eventually found my hotel.
The Festival, as it is known, takes place directly in the city centre in a large square located on Nevski Prospect the main street running the length of the city.
Because of this, it is open to all and sundry, and over the years has become a bit of a tourist event. All bikes are welcome, but naturally, Harleys dominate. Technically, because of its location and general public attendance, it is classed as a “dry rally”, but in the HOG tents you can always grab a vodka or two.
Bands play throughout the day, changing every hour or so. The atmosphere is excellent, and the opportunity for sightseeing is wonderful. Even after 6 years, I still have only seen a little that the city has to offer.
The Saturday parade gives the opportunity to see some of the far flung areas of the city, and usually takes a couple of hours, and I have fortunately, in the past as the only Brit there with a bike, been at the head of the parade.
Obviously this year I did not take part, although I was offered bikes by several friends. But having taken part for the previous 5 years, I did not feel I was missing out, and for a change I got the opportunity to watch the whole parade pass by.
Sunday sees the presentation of prizes for best bikes in show, plus plenty of speeches to visiting chapters.
This year saw a change in the management of the event, which some would say has had a slightly detrimental effect on the rally atmosphere, as the original organiser, Igor was well known by everybody who attended.
However, in general, it is still a great rally, and possibly the most spectacular location to hold a HD festival.
I normally travel back via Tallinn in Estonia, Riga in Latvia, and then take the ferry from Klaipeda in Lithuania to Kiel in Germany. I always call in to visit friends in Berlin and southern Germany, and then ride through France to Caen for the ferry home, although once I did try the Chunnel.
This year, I had to catch the train back to Helsinki, where I picked up the bike and caught a ferry to Tallinn which takes about 2 and a quarter hours. From there I rode to Tartu, Estonia’s second largest city with the thought of exploring more of the area. Unfortunately, down came the rain and after 115 very wet miles I arrived at my hotel.
To be honest the town was a bit of a disappointment, so I cut my visit short and next day rode to Riga.
This turned out to be a mistake as after a short time the sunshine disappeared and the weather turned. It transpired they had one month’s rain in a few hours that I was on the road. A trip that should have taken about 3 and a half hours took over 6. I looked like I had jumped into a swimming pool, and spent the next day drying everything.
Riga is a lovely city that should be on many people’s list of places to visit. Riga Chapter’s meeting place is The Rockabilly House, good meals and an excellent atmosphere for a night out.
Another worthwhile trip is to the National Car Museum, an exhibition with a superb collection of both East and West vehicles.
From Riga I took another new excursion, a visit to the Lithuanian capital, Vilnius: a very boring ride but dry at least.
After crossing the border, about 95 miles from Vilnius, came across a Motel with old Russian planes in the grounds, entrance fee a massive €2
Vilnius is a nice city with an interesting old town. (I found there a restaurant that only had potato dishes on the menu, I was in heaven.) When I left there were at least 25 people waiting in the queue to go in, so obviously very popular.
After 2 nights there I left for Klaipeda to get my ferry to Kiel. The main road was quite congested, and as I had time I decided to go off onto a minor road. Big mistake as after a short while I hit road works. The problem is that they dig up both sides of the road and have lights controlling the contra flow. Unfortunately, the transition from road works to paved road sometimes creates a large lip, which you don’t see till you hit it, which I did with great force.
Once again I encountered rain which delayed my arrival, plus I decided to go to the freight port instead of the passenger dock. Arrived very late, but the let me on the boat, albeit having to park on the truck deck.
The ferry arrives Kiel late evening, so stayed at a hotel near the dock, and next morning set out to visit friends near Leipzig, however, a troubling vibration had me worried. At first I thought I had damaged the front wheel, but as the journey continued, I realised it was the rear wheel that was the problem. By the time I got near Goslar in the Herz mountains, (still in the pouring rain), I decided it was too dangerous to continue and found myself a hotel in the town, thinking I would have to call the RAC the next morning.
I was examining the bike when some-one asked me if there was a problem. Turns out he was the owner of the hotel, and also a Harley rider.
After a chat, he rang Braunschweig HD who agreed to look at the bike, so next morning I loaded up and rode the 35 or so miles, in the rain, of course, very slowly.
I arrived at 10 am, opening time, and 15 minutes later the bike was on the ramp. At 1pm, with new rear wheel bearings fitted I was back on the road. Excellent service and at €240 I couldn’t moan.
I continued my trip staying with friends in Southern Germany, visiting Mylau, home of the largest brick viaduct in the world, then on to St Alvold where I visited a large American war cemetery.
Continued on, in the rain to Ouistram and managed to get on the night boat, even managing to get a cabin.
Although I ride mostly alone, I visit friends along the route and always meet up with likeminded souls on the road.
I have been invited for coffee and cake, and the odd beer, in many places on my travels, (probably because I was often so wet and bedraggled).
This year I took nearly 4 weeks for the trip, and I appreciate that not everyone can take this amount of time, but it is quite an adventure riding through some of the Russian countryside, and the rest of the Baltic countries.
If anybody wants any more info on the requirements for the trip I’d be happy to help. I am already planning next year’s trip, riding through Denmark and Sweden to Stockholm, and a ferry to Helsinki and then St Petersburg.
I have also found a company whose website offers insurance for riding in Russia, so hopefully will have my bike with me once again.
The first thing to say is that it takes both time and patience to get there by bike, but it is definitely worth it if you have both. From applying for a Visa, to going to London to have fingerprints taken, and the forms that have to be completed it can seem a bit of a faff. Medical Insurance, International driving licence, Green card for bike Insurance are all required, plus temp import and re-export docs although some may not be examined every time.
I have used a couple of routes to get there and this year was one I have used 3 times.
I caught the overnight ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland and rode direct to Hamburg. I usually spend the night and next day there to take in the sights, meet some friends, and get a decent Currywurst. As it happened the finals of the Ironman competition was taking place, and I was in the right place to catch the end of this exciting race.
The ride from Hamburg to Travemunde only takes about an hour, traffic and weather permitting, and there I met up with some German friends also taking the Helsinki ferry.
Loading starts at 9pm and the ferry departs about 2am. 2 nights on board on a boat that is more geared to freight does drag a little but does get you close to Russia without the long ride. I take the view that as I am going to a special rally, I minimise any chance of mechanical problems on the way there, and worry about them on the return.
This year for the first time there was an issue with insurance as no company would issue a Green Card, a necessity for travel in Russia. I could have rode in without it, but to be honest, having witnessed the state of some Russian driving, I did not want to take the risk. I have since found out that it may be possible to buy Insurance at the border, but how the hell that works I have no idea.
Instead I left my bike at my Hotel in Helsinki, and took the train into Russia. In fact it turned out to be far less hassle than driving through Finland and crossing the Russian border for the ride down to St Pete. All the document checks were carried out on the train which takes just over 3 hours. In previous visits, it has taken me that long just to get through the border checks. (The first year took 4 and a half hours.) However, this meant no bike in St Pet, but as the rally is so central, I didn’t really miss it for once.
I had plotted my route from the station to my hotel. The number 7 tram would take me almost to the door. Out the station, saw the tram, jumped on it Great. Went to pay, and after a bit of a discussion found I was going the wrong way. Off the tram, cross the road to go in the opposite direction, no tram. After a lot a chat with a local, I found a bus that took me in the direction I needed to go, and eventually found my hotel.
The Festival, as it is known, takes place directly in the city centre in a large square located on Nevski Prospect the main street running the length of the city.
Because of this, it is open to all and sundry, and over the years has become a bit of a tourist event. All bikes are welcome, but naturally, Harleys dominate. Technically, because of its location and general public attendance, it is classed as a “dry rally”, but in the HOG tents you can always grab a vodka or two.
Bands play throughout the day, changing every hour or so. The atmosphere is excellent, and the opportunity for sightseeing is wonderful. Even after 6 years, I still have only seen a little that the city has to offer.
The Saturday parade gives the opportunity to see some of the far flung areas of the city, and usually takes a couple of hours, and I have fortunately, in the past as the only Brit there with a bike, been at the head of the parade.
Obviously this year I did not take part, although I was offered bikes by several friends. But having taken part for the previous 5 years, I did not feel I was missing out, and for a change I got the opportunity to watch the whole parade pass by.
Sunday sees the presentation of prizes for best bikes in show, plus plenty of speeches to visiting chapters.
This year saw a change in the management of the event, which some would say has had a slightly detrimental effect on the rally atmosphere, as the original organiser, Igor was well known by everybody who attended.
However, in general, it is still a great rally, and possibly the most spectacular location to hold a HD festival.
I normally travel back via Tallinn in Estonia, Riga in Latvia, and then take the ferry from Klaipeda in Lithuania to Kiel in Germany. I always call in to visit friends in Berlin and southern Germany, and then ride through France to Caen for the ferry home, although once I did try the Chunnel.
This year, I had to catch the train back to Helsinki, where I picked up the bike and caught a ferry to Tallinn which takes about 2 and a quarter hours. From there I rode to Tartu, Estonia’s second largest city with the thought of exploring more of the area. Unfortunately, down came the rain and after 115 very wet miles I arrived at my hotel.
To be honest the town was a bit of a disappointment, so I cut my visit short and next day rode to Riga.
This turned out to be a mistake as after a short time the sunshine disappeared and the weather turned. It transpired they had one month’s rain in a few hours that I was on the road. A trip that should have taken about 3 and a half hours took over 6. I looked like I had jumped into a swimming pool, and spent the next day drying everything.
Riga is a lovely city that should be on many people’s list of places to visit. Riga Chapter’s meeting place is The Rockabilly House, good meals and an excellent atmosphere for a night out.
Another worthwhile trip is to the National Car Museum, an exhibition with a superb collection of both East and West vehicles.
From Riga I took another new excursion, a visit to the Lithuanian capital, Vilnius: a very boring ride but dry at least.
After crossing the border, about 95 miles from Vilnius, came across a Motel with old Russian planes in the grounds, entrance fee a massive €2
Vilnius is a nice city with an interesting old town. (I found there a restaurant that only had potato dishes on the menu, I was in heaven.) When I left there were at least 25 people waiting in the queue to go in, so obviously very popular.
After 2 nights there I left for Klaipeda to get my ferry to Kiel. The main road was quite congested, and as I had time I decided to go off onto a minor road. Big mistake as after a short while I hit road works. The problem is that they dig up both sides of the road and have lights controlling the contra flow. Unfortunately, the transition from road works to paved road sometimes creates a large lip, which you don’t see till you hit it, which I did with great force.
Once again I encountered rain which delayed my arrival, plus I decided to go to the freight port instead of the passenger dock. Arrived very late, but the let me on the boat, albeit having to park on the truck deck.
The ferry arrives Kiel late evening, so stayed at a hotel near the dock, and next morning set out to visit friends near Leipzig, however, a troubling vibration had me worried. At first I thought I had damaged the front wheel, but as the journey continued, I realised it was the rear wheel that was the problem. By the time I got near Goslar in the Herz mountains, (still in the pouring rain), I decided it was too dangerous to continue and found myself a hotel in the town, thinking I would have to call the RAC the next morning.
I was examining the bike when some-one asked me if there was a problem. Turns out he was the owner of the hotel, and also a Harley rider.
After a chat, he rang Braunschweig HD who agreed to look at the bike, so next morning I loaded up and rode the 35 or so miles, in the rain, of course, very slowly.
I arrived at 10 am, opening time, and 15 minutes later the bike was on the ramp. At 1pm, with new rear wheel bearings fitted I was back on the road. Excellent service and at €240 I couldn’t moan.
I continued my trip staying with friends in Southern Germany, visiting Mylau, home of the largest brick viaduct in the world, then on to St Alvold where I visited a large American war cemetery.
Continued on, in the rain to Ouistram and managed to get on the night boat, even managing to get a cabin.
Although I ride mostly alone, I visit friends along the route and always meet up with likeminded souls on the road.
I have been invited for coffee and cake, and the odd beer, in many places on my travels, (probably because I was often so wet and bedraggled).
This year I took nearly 4 weeks for the trip, and I appreciate that not everyone can take this amount of time, but it is quite an adventure riding through some of the Russian countryside, and the rest of the Baltic countries.
If anybody wants any more info on the requirements for the trip I’d be happy to help. I am already planning next year’s trip, riding through Denmark and Sweden to Stockholm, and a ferry to Helsinki and then St Petersburg.
I have also found a company whose website offers insurance for riding in Russia, so hopefully will have my bike with me once again.
